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2) A little dielectric silicon ("tune up") grease applied to the rubber seals will help with the squeaking and reduce the tendency of the seals to dry out

3) Don't let anyone use a polishing machine to compound a black car - at least not until you've seen another car they've done, under full light. The little swirls take several applications of the high-tech waxes or color repair waxes to fill.

4) If you get a Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL or Check Engine light) and the code indicates the number 2 heated O2 sensor on either bank, check the torque on the nuts holding the H-pipe to the header pipe. This may loosen up over time, and will cause an indicated lean condition. The computer adjusts by increasing richness, but no improvement is seen on the rear (number 2) sensor. Tightening these will also improve your mileage by eliminating that compensating action by the PCU of your car. The right bank is code P0157 for the 1999 cars, and the left bank is DTC P0158. Codes are probably the same for all C5 and C6 cars, but you can check in the shop manual, Google, or at your parts store. You can borrow a code reader from Kragen, AutoZone, etc. Other causes are the sensor leads in contact with the exhaust system, out of fuel (resets after several startup/shutdown cycles), intermittent ground, lean/dirty injectors, water in the fuel, low fuel pressure (think fuel filter), and others. The $180 sensor is probably not the culprit (and there are four of the on the C5 cars). This doesn't apply to the front (number 1 ) sensor, as it is before the junction of exhaust pipe to cat connections. For these, start with some Techron (see below) and make sure there isn't water in the gas. If you've had to buy cheap gas, that may account for it. I'm betting a damaged or loose vacuum hose will show up as low voltage on Heated O2 Sensor one on one or both banks, as well

5) Chevron Techron really works. If using suspect or second-tier fuel, a heavy dose of this will clean up the injectors and improve performance/mileage. We ran this through my son's Taurus, which runs on Shell regular, and it smoothed out and picked up about 15% on the mileage (but it hadn't been cleaned in a while). He runs two bottles per 16 gallon fill-up once every 3-4 months. I'd be interested in hearing what other fuel system cleaners work well.

6) A dirty fuel filter will make your brakes work poorly. Yep. To get enough fuel to make the car go as you want, the throttle butterfly has to open more, which drops vacuum and decreases effectiveness of power brake boost. I saw this on a 1987 Chevy pickup I had - brakes took a lot of effort. Horizon Chevrolet in Naperville, IL, changed the filter and the mechanic explained the interaction to me. made a lot of sense, so I stay on top of fuel filters. Besides, you can get the MIL described above

The above tips 1-6 are from one of our club members.

1. Below I have a link to a site that talks all about car waxes, both carnauba wax and synthetic wax's.  It's very informative.
http://www.autogeek.net/qude101.html

2.This is a link to Adam's car care products, wax, detail spray, etc., I think this is good stuff, best I have ever used.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/

3.Here is a link to information about some synthetic waxes like Klasse.
http://superiorcarcare.net/klasse.html?